CHECK EACH MONTH . . . .

• oil level — add oil if low and check for leaks
• hoses — replace if bulging, rotten, or brittle
• belts — replace if worn, frayed, or glazed
• tire pressure — add air if low
• coolant or antifreeze — add more if low
• air filter — replace if dirty
• inspect tires for leaks, damage, bulges, or uneven wear

CHECK EVERY 3 MONTHS

• oil and oil filter — change every 3,000 miles
• windshield washer fluid — add fluid if low
• battery and power steering fluid — add fluid if low
• brake fluid — add fluid if low
• transmission fluid — add fluid if low
• battery terminals and cables — clean if corroded

CHECK EVERY 6 MONTHS

• wiper blades — replace if worn, brittle, or smeary
• make sure headlights, brake lights, and turn signals work
• make sure horn works properly
• inspect brakes for wear and tear or “slippage”
• make sure spare tire is fully inflated
• inspect exhaust system for rust, damage, or loose parts
• inspect shock absorbers for oil seepage or wear

Road Hazard Tire & Wheel Protection Plan – This new plan provides hassle-free replacement or repair of tires and wheels damaged as a result of a road hazard condition. Or, in regular lingo – if you get a flat tire and the tire is NOT REPAIRABLE, and have our road hazard protection added to your purchase, we’ll replace the tire for you FREE OF CHARGE.

Obviously some vehicles have wheel/tire combos that lend themselves to be more LIKELY to have an accident, in which case ask Shellie, Chance or Keith if Road Hazard protection is AVAILABLE for you.

To some they have been considered an “off brand” because they don’t inundate you with advertising all over the place, but to me they are one thing. AWESOME.

The latest tire they’ve released in their sports and performance line is the Ventus V12 EVO and at around $112 per tire (for my size) they are an absolute BARGAIN. I’m a weekend track-dog and I’ve used all sorts of tires, from Michelin’s to Pirellis to Bridgestone – but after reading this review from CAR and DRIVER I knew I had to give them a try.  Stay tuned for my full write up after I get some agressive miles on them (read: after this darn snow and ice goes away)

If you’re in the market for new tires, all of the variables in tire specifications and the confusing jargon you might hear from tire salesmen or “experts” might make your purchase rather stressful.

Or maybe you just want to fully understand the tires you already have, the concepts at work, the significance of all of those sidewall markings. What does all this stuff mean in regular terms?

­In this article, we will explore how tires are built and see what’s in a tire. We’ll find out what all the numbers and markings on the sidewall of a tire mean, and we’ll decipher some of that tire jargon. By the end of this article, you’ll ­understand how a tire supports your car, and you’ll know why heat can build up in your tires, especially if the pressure is low. You’ll also be able to adjust your tire pressure correctly and diagnose some common tire problems!

What All the Numbers Mean

Each section of small print on a tire’s sidewall means something:

Tire Type

The P designates that the tire is a passenger vehicle tire. Some other designations are LT for light truck, and T for temporary, or spare tires.

Tire Width

The 235 is the width of the tire in millimeters (mm), measured from sidewall to sidewall. Since this measure is affected by the width of the rim, the measurement is for the tire when it is on its intended rim size.

Aspect Ratio

This number tells you the height of the tire, from the bead to the top of the tread. This is described as a percentage of the tire width. In our example, the aspect ratio is 75, so the tire’s height is 75 percent of its width, or 176.25 mm ( .75 x 235 = 176.25 mm, or 6.94 in). The smaller the aspect ratio, the wider the tire in relation to its height.

High performance tires usually have a lower aspect ratio than other tires. This is because tires with a lower aspect ratio provide better lateral stability. When a car goes around a turn lateral forces are generated and the tire must resist these forces. Tires with a lower profile have shorter, stiffer sidewalls so they resist cornering forces better.

Tire Construction

The R designates that the tire was made using radial construction. This is the most common type of tire construction. Older tires were made using diagonal bias (D) or bias belted (B) construction. A separate note indicates how many plies make up the sidewall of the tire and the tread.

Rim Diameter

This number specifies, in inches, the wheel rim diameter the tire is designed for.

“What separates the S.drive from other tires is its construction, designed for a long life, low rolling resistance, good grip and traction…”

“So how good is the S.drive? Whether they were on the HKS 350Z or BMW 1 Series, the new Yokohama tire impressed, exhibiting excellent grip and traction. It performed far better than the stock O.E. tire, and was comparable to the ADVAN Neova.”

“The S.drive is an ideal aftermarket tire for performance enthusiasts on a slight budget.”

“It may well be the best and most cost-efficient way to instantly improve the performance of your Nissan 350z or Honda Civic.”

Sam Mitani, Road & Track – May 2007

“…it communicated its intentions better. The S.drive was really able to show its hand in the wet braking where it pulled up several feet short of Michelin’s best effort.”

“It’s very forgiving with plenty of feedback. Turn-in was predictable and allowed you to place the car precisely where you wanted it on the short track, and we found braking forces were high. The tires had ample grip and weren’t constantly understeering when pushed hard.”

“The S.drive appeared to be hard wearing. After a day of serious abuse, the tires on the 130i looked new. In fact, Yokohama brought out D1 drift racer Takahiro Ueno to provide a memorable drift demonstration in the T&E 350Z, and even after such punishment the tread blocks were barely scuffed.”

Greg Emmerson, Eurotuner – April 2007